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Okay, you've read Greenhorn Guidance #1 and made your decision. You now have a brand new muzzleloading black powder rifle staring at you and there's probably a whole new set of questions on your mind.
"Now that I have a smoke pole, what do I need to shoot it?"
The way I used to advise people who purchased black-powder arms from me was to buy only what you need to shoot them at first, then pick up the little extras along the way. As you read on, you'll see what I mean. You don't just need items to make the thing shoot, but also items for safety, for cleaning, and for getting you out of trouble. I'll explain things in that order, but I highly recommend you go to our archives and read Jon Brian Waugh's two-part article, "First Shots." He details his first shooting experience so well that you'll learn a lot from reading the article. My compliments to Brian for an excellent treatment of his first shots.
"What load should I shoot?"
Whether you desire to hunt or just punch paper, you need to sight-in your new smoke pole. Eventually, you will want to develop a load for it - the one powder/patch/ball combination that performs the best in your firearm. You will shoot this load in all situations - on the range and in the field. In order to find that load, you need to shoot groups of five shots or so with different powder/patch/ball combinations until you zero in on the most accurate one. After the first several rounds have lapped your barrel, little will change over the years as far as point-of-impact. This is one of my reasons for buying just what you need at first - some things will change as you look for your load and you might have wasted money on something you won't need.
"What are the basic items I need to start shooting?"
For both percussion and flint firing mechanisms, you will need black powder (or some substitute like Pyrodex, if you prefer*). Black powder is graded according to the size of its individual grains. The coarsest powder is called Cannon, then comes 1Fg, 2Fg, 3Fg, and finally 4Fg. For a flintlock, you will need 4Fg (called 4F) for priming the pan. In a pinch you can use 2Fg or 3Fg, but because 4Fg has the smallest grains it is probably the best for the beginner. Then you'll need some 2Fg or 3Fg for the main powder charge. You don't need a horn or flask at first, but you will need an adjustable powder measure. Just pour from the can into the measure, replace the cap on the powder, and pour the measured powder down the barrel. You will also need patches and patch lube for firing and a round ball made from pure lead. Several companies offer lead round balls that are swaged, or pressure formed, instead of being cast. They are a bit more expensive but worth it, especially if you're just starting out. A short-starter will help with the loading process, and most muzzleloaders have a loading rod, often called a ramrod by Hollywood types or a wiping stick by old timers, attached. For a flintlock, you will need a gun flint of the proper size and a piece of lead or leather to help hold the flint in the cock. A beginner's book is a good idea as it will have snapshots or sketches of the wrapping techniques. There are several good ones on the market like the Black Powder Digest. A screwdriver or some other tool is needed to secure the flint in the jaws of the cock. Adjust the flint so that it strikes the frizzen flatly. What you're looking for is a flint that scrapes metal shavings off the frizzen evenly and pushes them into the pan as it is falling. For a percussion gun, you'll need caps that fit your nipple properly. Check with your manufacturers instructions to find the correct size for your cap lock.
Besides the powder and patches, lube, and balls, you'll only need a few more things to start shooting. A short-starter is a real good idea, as tight ball and patch combinations are common these days. They are much more accurate but are more difficult to load than what great-grandpa used to shoot. A way to measure powder charges is necessary so that you know what you are putting down the barrel. While you are looking for your load, you will be changing the amount of powder you shoot, so an adjustable powder measure is the way to go. Get one made from brass as it will not accidentally cause a spark that could ruin your whole day, one with an attached funnel in mighty handy. Once you find your load, you will likely make or buy a powder measuring device that throws the same charge for you time and again such as a hollowed-out horn or antler tip. They are easy to use, throw an accurate and repeatable charge, and besides they look damn good hanging from your shooting pouch. But until then, and with all load working-up you'll be doing (like for your next firearm), an adjustable powder measure will always come in handy.
Simple tools that can help are screwdrivers, but get a set designed for use with guns. You'll want a nipple wrench if you've got a percussion lock or vent picks and pan brushes if you bought a flintlock. A rag is handy to wipe off the frizzen or lock area during a long day at the range. You'll also need to clean it periodically as the powder fouling can get pretty bad after just several rounds, not to mention when you're done for the day. And that cleaning job should be extremely thorough.
"What do I need to clean it?"
You will need large cleaning patches, a cleaning solution, and a cleaning jag. You might want to get a cleaning rod, too - they are longer than the gun's "wiping stick" and are handier for cleaning and ball pulling. Along with a cleaning jag you also may want to pick up, a ball puller, a "worm" for retrieving lost patches, and scraper for the face of the breech plug to complete your kit. Your cleaning solution can also be your patch lube, so you can save money there by doubling up. Eventually, as you meet and talk to other shooters, you will get recipes for cleaning solutions that work really well. A good gun oil is needed after cleaning and drying - lightly oil all metal surfaces.
"Anything else?"
A ball puller can get you out of big trouble on the range and especially in the field. I also like to carry a tin of pre- lubed patches; it's very convenient, and you can buy or make your own (with your cleaning/lubing solution). I highly recommend finding someone through a local black-powder club or range - go out shooting with this person first; there are several advantages to being shown first. To put your initial needs in list form, here's what you might need:
Example List 1 - Percussion Rifle, .50 cal.
Start with about 45 to 50 grains of 2F powder and work from there. You will probably find your most accurate load between 50 and 65 grains, with no need to go much higher. Checking with you gun manufacturer for loading and safety information is a must. Always wear eye protection. Caps can split and become little flying menaces, and powder may hiss out of the nipple when firing. Don't forget to bring the tools necessary to adjust your sights, usually a drift to move the rear sight and a file for the front.
Example List 2 - Flintlock Rifle, .36 cal.
Start with about 30 to 35 grains of 3F powder and work from there. You will probably find your most accurate load between 40 and 55 grains, with no need to go much higher. Prime with 4F. Checking with your gun manufacturer for loading and safety information is a must. Always wear eye protection. The powder in the pan will flare up very close to your face - it's something to get used to. Don't forget to bring the tools necessary to adjust your sights.
"Where to from there?"
As you shoot, and if you go the way I did, you will get interested in the time-period of your black-powder sport. Mine happened to be the 18th century (after years of searching and refining). As I developed my character, I added other things to my shooting list. Here are some of them, all suited to the 18th century:
"Can I start shooting now?"
You bet! You should now have everything you'll need to spend an enjoyable afternoon at the range or out in the field with your new smokepole. I'll bet you're eying that second addition to your collection already. ---JBL
If you have any questions or suggestions just drop a line to jeanbaptiste@armoryhill.com.
Editor's note -
But look out, those afternoons are going to turn into years of a most pleasurable pastime. Working with the tools our forefathers (and mothers) used to tame this continent helps strip away the stresses and worries of modern life. It puts us in touch with a simpler time and easier lifestyle that many of us find very compelling. But then that's what our hobby is all about. ---Ed.
*Black Powder or Pyrodex: Black Powder is, of course, the original powder and has been in use for centuries. It is an explosive (as opposed to a propellant), a highly dangerous powder that must be treated with caution (as you should any type of powder). Pyrodex is a modern substitute for black powder invented by the Hodgdon Powder Company. It is available in RS (rifle/shotgun) and P (pistol) grades, with RS being roughly equivalent to 2Fg and P to 3Fg. After using black powder, a thorough cleaning is necessary in good time because the residue attracts moisture very quickly and rust can be a problem. Pyrodex does not have the same problem as it acts like modern propellants. Purists will not use anything other than black . powder but those who aren't as fussy have a choice - essentially both do the same thing.
All information in this article is intended for educational purposes only. Please read the Muzzleloading Cautions & Commandments and follow them. Also please read and follow all manufacturer's instructions that accompany your muzzleloading firearm. The Armory Hill Living History Association and its staff assume no liability for injury or damage that may result from the use of any firearm.
Basically, if you do anything stupid it's your own fault.
