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Introduction: I worked at a gun shop for about five wonderful years in the most pleasurable job I have had. I worked for a great man, who taught me many things - more than just our fine sport. The shop was in the San Francisco Bay Area, and we stocked and sold more black powder items than anyone in the area. Our clientele varied from WWII and Vietnam veterans all the way to new, young shooters, with some really good paper shooters sprinkled in the mix. We stocked CVA, Thompson Center, and some others, but stayed away from too much of the high-end (custom) stuff. Percussion was the most popular, but there were some flintlock shooters. Hawken styles were the most popular style of rifle sold out here on the West Coast, but full-stocks were more popular with the custom rifle buyers. We were the only shop that sold black powder in the whole area, and because of it, we became "the place" to get all accoutrements. I spent years teaching and learning at the same time, hunting and shooting with several people. I liked getting beginners into the sport of black powder shooting. It is from this base that I discuss choosing a long gun.
Major Decisions: There are a few major decisions when looking for a long gun; cap or flint, caliber, and design. The choice between cap or flint is relatively easy for the beginner. Most people tend to lean toward caps for a first long gun because the ignition system is more sure, and occurs in a less obvious way (no plume of smoke as with a flintlock). Flintlocks are louder and more distracting for the beginner, but there is nothing wrong with them from a beginner's standpoint. The extra noise comes from the hiss of the flintlock ignition and the things that are happening in the short delay between pulling the trigger and the pan firing the charge in the barrel. The choice of ignition system often depends upon experience - if someone has been into other firearms, they may be more apt to try a flintlock. Also, if you are recreating a time period in which only flintlocks are proper, then your decision has already been made for you. However, because of the temperamental nature of flintlocks in general, the inexperienced beginner will have more success and be more pleased using a cap ignition system. For one thing, when a misfire occurs with a percussion weapon, you can be fairly sure that it has to do with a clogged pathway to the powder. With a flintlock misfire, you need to wait a few more seconds before removing the weapon from your shoulder as ignition may still occur (slow ignition). With all misfires, the shooter must be very careful to keep the weapon pointed down range, notify the range master, and slowly research the problem. Often, it is necessary to wet the powder charge in the barrel using oil so that there is no chance of it firing when you are trying to pull the projectile.
Caliber is also a choice to make. Depending upon intended use, calibers commonly run from 32 to 75 caliber. If you only want to shoot paper, then a mid-range caliber is best. Anything from 45 to 54 caliber will usually print fine, using less lead and powder than a larger caliber, and not fouling as much as a smaller caliber. If the intended use is hunting also, then caliber is a more important decision. 32 and 36 calibers are popular for small game hunting (squirrel, rabbit, fur-bearers). Out here in California, 45 to 54 caliber will take any game in the state (deer, boar, bear). Larger game in North America are usually hunted with 54 to 75 caliber. One thing to remember here is weight - the larger the caliber, the heavier the weapon and it's associated ball. Weight is an important factor in deciding if you can carry the whole mess all day long, and still feel comfortable to make the shot. The higher calibers (58 to 75) can also be had in smoothbores, but since we're talking about beginners, a rifled barrel is more accurate, so we'll keep the conversation to that.
Once you have chosen your ignition system and caliber, design becomes the last hurdle to choosing your first smoke pole. Are you looking for something authentic to the time period, or something that is more modern? If the time period you are trying to recreate is early, a larger caliber, full stock flintlock is more of the design for which you are looking. If you are interested in the Rocky Mountain fur trade era, then a half-stock cap lock is the choice. Between these two are literally hundreds of choices. My advice here is to ask questions, talk to people at gun shows and on rifle ranges - send me questions, and read, read, read. I have never met a more friendly group of shooters than those who shoot black powder.
If you have any questions or suggestions just drop a line to jeanbaptiste@armoryhill.com.
