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Colonial Cooking at Home and on the Frontier

With Jean Baptiste readying his kit for the pre-1800 rendezvous I'm going to slip into his moccasins and try to fulfill your expectations. I don't pretend to know as much about cooking on the trail as Jean so I won't even try to follow his format. In this edition of "Cooking for Camp and Trail" you'll find authentic recipes used in colonial homes and at frontier outposts. I've drawn heavily on a wonderful book that deserves a full review in its own right, History from the Hearth: A Colonial Michilimackinac Cookbook by Sally Eustice, © 1997 Mackinac State Historic Parks (ISBN: 911872-67-1) and two marvelous books for younger readers by Joy Masoff, Colonial Times 1600-1700, ©2000 (ISBN: 0-439-05107-X) and American Revolution 1700-1800, © 2000 (ISBN: 0-439-05109-6). Look for all of these fine volumes in future editions of Between the Covers. In the meantime, why not look for them at your local bookseller? You'll be proud to have them in your collection. I know I sure am.---JBW

"What's there to eat?"

In colonial American there wasn't a great deal of difference between cooking at home and at a frontier outpost. Unless you lived in one of the few large port cities with access to foodstuffs imported from Europe, the Carribbean and elsewhere you pretty much ate what you could grow, raise yourself or could barter for. Accustomed as we are to a diet that includes foods from every corner of the globe and fresh produce from the bountiful farms of modern America the diet of colonials seems awfully limited and downright bland. Residents of New York, Boston, Philidelphia or Charles Town could liven up their plates with delicacies of all sorts but most Americans depended on the fruits and vegetables they grew themselves, livestock they raised and the game that abounded in the huge forests that thickly covered their new land. Many of the plants they brought from their native countries didn't grow as well as they had back home but there were new things too in America that had been cultivated by Native Americans for hundreds of years. In short order corn, squashes like pumpkin, beans and others took their place at the colonial table. Plentiful and fresh at harvest time they could be preserved and eaten during the winter. Yes, this new land was one where no one need go hungry. Here are a few of the dishes one might find on the table in early America.

Corn Cakes
1 C coarse cornmeal grits
3 C water
Simmer until all the water is absorbed. When cool, turn
the mixture onto a floured work surface and shape it into
round, flat cakes. Bake at 375F for 45 minutes. Serve with
honey, jam, or maple syrup.     Colonial Times 1600-1700
Apple Tansey
4 apples
1 pat of butter
4 eggs, beaten
6 T heavy cream
1 t sugar
1 pinch nutmeg
Cut apples into thin slices. Melt butter in a samll skillet;
add the apples, and cook over low heat until they are soft.
Mix remaining ingredients in a small bowl and pour over the
apples. Cook about 2 or 3 minutes until the mixture sets.
Spoon the cooked mixture into individual soup bowls and top
with sprinkled sugar.     American Revolution 1700-1800
 
Pease Porridge
1 lb split peas
2 eggs
2 T butter
salt and pepper
Soak and cook split peas, drain liquid, and puree peas.
Mash pease into a smooth puree. Add butter, eggs, salt
and pepper. Pour into a greased bowl and cover tightly
so it won't dry out. Steam for 1 hour. Place bowl on a
trivet in a Dutch oven. Place 2 inches of water in the
bottom of the Dutch ovev, cover tightly, and bake for 20
minutes at 350F. Left-overs can be sliced and fried in
butter. Traditionally served with pork or sausage.
Baked Carrot Pudding
2 C grated carrots
1 onion, chopped
1 C water
1/2 t salt
Bring everything to a boil and cook 5 minutes. Mash or
whip until smooth. Add the following ingredients:
1 egg beaten
1/2 C milk 1/2 C dry bread crumbs
1 T butter
1/4 t cinnamon
Place on a trivet and put in a Dutch oven. Bake covered
for 20 minutes at 350F.
 
Skirlie
1 onion, thinly sliced
2 strips bacon
1/2 C oatmeal
salt and pepper
Chop bacon into 1-inch chunks and fry. When grease
coats the pan, add sliced onion. Cook until transparent.
Add oatmeat to absorb the fat, keeping the mixture thick.
Stir for 7-10 minutes, till cooked. Serve with mincemeat
roasted poultry, or as a main dish when the larder is bare.
Planked Whitefish
1 whitefish
4-5 strips bacon
2-3 T cooking oil
salt and pepper
Coarse salt
Oak plank
Season whitefish with salt and pepper. Heat oak plank
near the fire. Oil the fish and put it in the center of
the board. Cover the exposed part of the board with coarse
salt to keep it from burning. Spread bacon on top of the fish.
then prop the board in front of the fire and bake about 45
minutes.
 
Boiled Salt Pork
2 lbs salt pork
Assorted vegetables as available, chopped:
     Onions
     Potatoes
     Cabbage
     Carrots
     Turnips
Salt and pepper
Water
Freshen salt pork by soaking in a kettle of water at
least 2 hours. If very salty, repeat soaking.
Cut salt pork into chunks and brown in the bottom
of a Dutch oven. Add water to cover and bring to a
slow boil. Add vegetables and cook until tender. Season
with salt and pepper.
Raccoon Fricassee
1 Raccoon
1 onion, sliced into rings
1/2 C vinegar
1 1/2 C water
2-3 T lard or other fat
1 bay leaf
Skin the raccoon, remove the musk glands and dress out
the carcass. Soak in salt water overnight to draw out the
blood. Baking soda can be added to the water to remove
any gamey smell.
Cut raccoon into serving pieces and dredge in flour
seasoned with salt and pepper. Brown in hot fat. Add
remaining ingredients. cover and simmer 2 hours or until
tender. Thicken the juice with flour and water mixture
for gravy. Serve hot with cornbread.

That should be enough to keep you cooking for a while. I know I can't wait to try the raccoon fricassee on my mother-in-law. Without telling her what is it, of course. Seriously, put together a colonial-style meal. It will give you a new understanding of life in early America and an appreciation of your neighborhood grocery store as well. Oh, and profound apologies to Jean Baptiste. Hurry back, Jean!---JBW

Unless otherwise noted all recipes are from History from the Hearth.

As always, write to Jean at jeanbaptiste@armoryhill.com with your questions and suggestions.

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