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Part 2: Clothes Make the Man, or Woman |
For example, when I began to become interested in portraying an 18th century character I was reading a great deal about the French and Indian War period (c.1754-63). It was a fascinating time in our country's history and truly set the stage for the Revolutionary War. But it seemed to me there was comparitvely little available for reenactors of the period. In the years since then I have discovered many wonderful sources for F & I period items. Yet then it seemed so much easier to plant myself in the middle 1770s. This was spurred on in no small part by my desire to own a rifleman's frock. I thought they looked very cool and was dismayed to learn they were just not around during the French and Indian War. C'est la guerre. I doubt that today I would let the desire to wear a particular item relocate me in time, but hey, you never know.
Okay, back to the character thing. When I go to Rendezvous or other reenactment, I am a member of the Pennsylvania militia. When I'm not out serving my fledgling country I am a schoolteacher and part-time pamphleteer in Philidelphia. I am married to the daughter of one of the city's most successful merchants and situated firmly in the upper middle class. I have the goods and services of one of the largest cities in North America available to me. I read Benjamin Franklin's newspaper and eagerly await the printing of each successive edition of Poor Richard's Almanack. I fought alongside the British Army during the French and Indian War as a member of the Pennsylvania militia. I kept many of the articles from that time including my rifle. Remember, not everyone was a middle-ground longhunter. Nor did they wish to be. Most Americans lived within fifty miles of the Atlantic ocean and were too busy raising their families to risk the dangers of the frontier.
So, in the case of my character, what would the well-dressed Philidelphian find himself wearing? Certainly most men of that era wore what were then known as "small clothes," or narrow fall-front breeches. When then styles changed and waistcoats (pronounced wes-kits) became shorter button-fly breeches, or trousers, (long pants were called overalls) fell out of fashion and the narrow fall-front breeches were the norm. Long stockings and buckle shoes finished off the lower half of a man's wordrobe. The upper half consisted of a full-sleeved shirt, usually of linen as it was less expensive than cotton. The shirt was considered an undergarment, also doing duty as the boxer or brief of day. The shirt was topped with a waistcoat, long or short styles were both worn, and a frock coat. Like the breeches and waistcoats, the frock also went through a style change during the 1760s. It's skirt became less full and the cuffs were reduced in size. It looked less like a restyled European military garment and more like the unique American coat it would become.
This is all well and good for discussion, but what might one find in an armoire of a proper republican gentleman of the day? Probably something along these lines.
That's fine for town use, but what if we want to go hunting? We'll wear our basic shirt-waistcoat- breeches outfit but substitute a heavier linen hunting shirt secured at the waist with either a good stout belt or a woven sash. We'll cover our stockings with over-the-knee gaiters of over-the-ankle spatterdashers made of painted canvas or deerskin. We'd probably tuck a knife and an axe in our belt and sling a haversack with some victuals to sustain us during the day. The more gentlemanly would take a smoothbore fowling piece and shot for a day's bird hunting. Others would arm themselves with a rifle of .40 to .50 caliber and go looking for a deer to fill the larder. Most middle class families would have only one firearm as all were hand-made and some quite expensive. The well-to-do would own several and most likely have both rifles and smoothbores for whatever game they intended to hunt. And regardless of the long gun chosen there would be the appropriate hunting pouch to accompany it. The pouch would hold all the "necessaries" to shoot and clean its companion gun. Pouches and their acoutrements changed much during the period of their use, but that is a topic that could sustain an entire volume. And does.
So if we choose to go afield we'll also need:
Please remember that the complete outfit I've just described would be pretty expensive and belong only to a well-to-do man. You can get by just fine with just the basics as did most Americans of the time. Also remember that you can mix items of an earlier time with your character's wardrobe and accessories. So, a man in Revolutionary times would not be out of place wearing or carrying things from the French and Indian War period. Just don't use items that are from later on.
See y'all next time!---Jean Baptiste La Jeunesse
Editor's note:
A great deal is made in some circles of "total authenticity." There are those who turn up their noses at bit and pieces of another's kit because they somehow don't measure up to their standards. I would note that if that is the case then the authenticity buffs should not have one machine sewn garment or other acoutrement. Elias Howe didn't invent the sewing machine until 1849. It's like the vegetarian who doesn't eat meat because of the poor animals that get killed yet wears a leather belt. My point is, it more important that you go out and enjoy yourself at whatever level of "correctness" you're comfortable with. Don't let another influence you. The doing is the most important thing. As for me, I'll never wear a straight-lasted shoe or boot. My feet would never forgive me. I just tell 'em that "crooked" shoes were available very early on. They just cost more. My feet are worth it. Yours probably are too.---Ed.